Gordon Watson sent us this story from the Vancouver Sun about an innovative local restaurant that (although it’s not mentioned in the story) is also a drop off point for Home on the Range cowshare members. From what’s said in the story it sounds as though these folks follow the Weston A. Price approach to healthy eating using nutrient-dense foods:
1600 McKay Rd., North Vancouver (across from Indigo Books). 604-988-6280. wwww.ethicalkitchen.com.
Open Tuesday to Friday, 8:30 to 6; Saturday, 10 to 5.
VANCOUVER – The name: Ethical Kitchen. The ambience: a lighter shade of The Naam. The staff: wholesome young women with fresh faces. Food: 99-per-cent organic. First impression: It’s a vegetarian haven, a Birkenstock collective.
So what a surprise – I had the most delicious, juicy burger here. The beef stew was crammed with very good beef. I could have had an equally meaty, juicy sausage on a bun.
When you put together the bits and pieces of information posted on the cooler display, you realize Ethical Kitchen is an unexpected mix of healthy and sustainable and lots of meat.
The owner, Barbara Schellenberg (the one with baby Tessa swaddled on her chest) comes about the meat thing naturally. Her parents are ranchers near Williams Lake, producing grass-fed, organic beef and lamb and organic pork and poultry. She started out marketing their meats (under the label Pasture to Plate) to Vancouver stores but she longed for more people contact. At Ethical Kitchen she sells the meat from a walk-in freezer but the front is more like a farm kitchen. A small menu of healthy dishes (her background also involves herbal medicine and body work) will delight carnivores who want wholesome, made-from-scratch food.
The burger ($13) came on a fresh-made sourdough bun (I saw the next batch proofing in bowls). Inside the bun, yummy condiments; it came with a crisp red and green coleslaw. A grilled fruit and Vancouver Island brie sandwich would have been excellent but for the bun, which in this case, was too tough for the delicate filling, smooshing the filling into a mess.
Ethical Kitchen is open for breakfast, too, serving up waffles, flourless apple pancakes and bacon and eggs – it’s organic everything, nitrate-free bacon, orchard-run eggs, bio-dynamically grown potatoes, Jerseyland raw milk cheese.
Other dishes include chicken coconut stew; sausage on a bun with a salad; sandwiches (beef, pork, chicken); gnocchi with tomato beef sauce; beef goulash; a hearty salad plate.
Schellenberg’s mission is to return to the diet of a century ago.
“It’s something that worked. This isn’t a fad; it’s what traditional cultures do all over the world. It involves fermented vegetables, bone broths and organic foods from the local area,” she says.
She offers many fermented foods, good for digestion and anti-oxidant qualities – kombucha tea, kimchee, sauerkraut, house-made ginger beer and something called beet kvass, “a great blood builder,” she says.
Even the house-made sourdough bread has fermented starter dough. Her stocks are simmered for three days until the bones break down and the minerals are all leached out. Hazelnut oil is expensive, but it’s local so she uses it.
Her walk-in freezer helps to keep food miles low. She freezes local fruits and vegetables in season. “I froze 3,000 pounds of tomatoes and a couple thousand pounds of fruit last summer,” she says. Even the kiwi is local….”