“Earlier this year, cheese lovers who view raw milk as a sacred cow, feared that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) planned to sharply limit or even ban the manufacture and sale of raw milk cheese. It would have been a loss not only for connoisseurs, but for anyone who cares about rural economies and sustainable food systems. Artisan cheese is a big part of the solution. Fortunately, it appears that the fears were exaggerated.
The role played by artisan cheese making in rural renewal was driven home to me recently when I chatted with Angela Miller, a New York literary agent who, with her architect husband Russel Glover, bought Consider Bardwell Farm in 2000. Although it has prospered as Vermont’s first dairy cooperative in the mid 1800s, the farm had suffered the fate of many once-prosperous New England dairies. For a decade prior to Miller’s purchase, it had been defunct, its barns and outbuildings sitting empty, its fields ungrazed. There was talk of converting the land into a military training ground. Continue reading