Raw milk in “The New Yorker”

From Dana Goodyear, at the Culture Desk at The New Yorker:

“…In Barber’s experience, though, whether or not milk is pasteurized is secondary to what the cow—in his view, a “vector for the grass”—eats: not only are pasture-fed ruminants eating food they evolved to digest, but also their milk reflects the subtle, seasonal changes in the field.

“Grain-feeding is a little like pasteurization,” he said. “It’s a dumbing down, an evening out of the flavors.” In the battle over raw milk, which I write about in the magazine this week, Barber sees a more important point being lost. “The picture is not just about pasteurization,” he said. “It’s part of a much larger question about how you’re raising the cattle and what quality of milk you’re trying to produce.

Raw cheese maker = “bacteria farmer”

From Jeanne Carpenter at the Cheese Underground:

“At a conference last week discussing how to differentiate Wisconsin cheese through “taste of place” (the U.S. version of French “terroir”), I heard quite possibly the best description that could ever be given to a cheesemaker.

Bacteria farmer.

The title rolled off the tongue of Ivan Larcher, a French cheesemaker and consultant, who via Skype from France, provided a 45-minute talk encouraging raw milk cheesemakers interested in crafting cheeses that reflect the flavors of their farms to also start cultivating their own starter cultures.

American living in France shares what it’s like in France’s “raw milk heaven”

The following is excerpted from a guest post on Jimmy Moore’s “Livin La Vida Low Carb” blog:

Raw milk dispensing machine as found by this story's author, Sarah, in front of a supermarket in the middle of France. Photo via Jimmy Moore's "Livin La Vida Low Carb" blog.

“My name is Sarah and I’m an American ex-patriot living in France. I have to say I listen to stories of the regulated raw milk market back in the States with great puzzlement.

Dairy Farmers of Ontario (DFO) pulls support for the Ontario Cheese Society because of article in OCS newsletter?

The story below (from the July 2010 “Milk Producer”, a publication of the DFO) makes no bones about the fact that the DFO (formerly the Ontario Milk Marketing Board) is withdrawing support specifically because the Cheese Society has expressed approval of dairy farmer Michael Schmidt and his work in advocating for legal raw milk in Ontario published an article by Michael Schmidt in their member newsletter (clarification based on comment by OCS official — see comments below):

C'mon now, we all know that Canadian consumers expect their cheese to be dyed orange... right? Picture and caption from the "Milk Producer", July 2010

“The Ontario Cheese Society’s (OCS) endorsement of raw milk advocate, Michael Schmidt, has caused Dairy Farmers of Ontario (DFO) to withdraw its support. “It is unconscionable that the OCS continues to endorse, and even promote, the consumption of raw milk by consumers,” says Dave Nolan, DFO’s marketing logistics director. He and Wray Krompart, DFO’s marketing manager, sent letters to OCS chairman, Gurth Pretty, citing DFO’s concerns.

The Ontario Ministry of the Attorney General is currently appealing a lower court ruling that acquitted Schmidt on 19 charges relating to the unlicensed processing, sale and distribution of unpasteurized milk and dairy products. Raw milk sale is illegal in Canada.

Cheese’s twilight rattles French identity

Curiously, this story comes to us via the “Political Blog”. I guess that means these folks see political ramifications to French cheeses. Here’s an excerpt:

“The milk that Paulette Marmottan uses in her cheese comes fresh from her cows and goats, so warm that on cold mornings, a cloud of steam goes up as she pours it into a cauldron.

But the Marmottans are the last family making it, and while most French people may be content with the mass-produced cheeses of their globalizing world, the disappearance of traditional varieties is seen by some as threatening the very essence of Frenchness.

It’s the first step in making Persille de Tignes, which according to local lore, was a favorite of the mighty 9th century emperor Charlemagne.

“The French have forgotten what real cheese is,” said Veronique Richez-Lerouge, who heads the Association Fromages de Terroirs, a group aimed at protecting France’s cheese culture.